The basics of landscape composition (Part two)

By Samuel Markham | 15 June 2022

This is part two of a two part series on landscape composition. You can see part one, from last week, here.

Centre It

Another great compositional trick is a centred composition, which is probably the simplest form of composition. By placing your main subject in the middle of your frame you’re making it very clear to your audience what you want them to focus on. This can also be a fantastic way to reduce any distractions from around your subject and make it the hero of the frame.

An example of where a centred composition works best. In this image, the Milky Way serves as a natural archway encompassing the monoliths. The central and symmetrical effect of this image’s composition engages with feelings of awe and magnitude. Captured at the Bungle Bungle Range, Purnululu National Park, WA. Sony A7R III, Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM Art lens. 10s @ f2, ISO 640. Two row, 20 image panorama.

You can broaden this style by surrounding your central composition with natural framing, strengthening and providing an extra layer to reinforce the structure of your image. Search for elements such as overhanging foliage, rock arches and ice caves, that are all parts of the natural landscape and create a ‘window’ into your subject.

Upper Belmore Falls, Robertson, NSW. Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon 16-35mm f/4 IS L lens @ 16mm. 5s @ f22, ISO 50. Four image focus stack + exposure blend.

Ditch The Tripod

I pride myself on my ability to shoot many situations handheld. Shooting without a tripod challenges your creative freedom and expands your compositional possibilities. I encourage you to scout, compose and capture your images without the safety blanket that is your tripod.

Tarago, NSW. Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 16mm. 1/50s @ f8, ISO 1250.

You will realise you have no limitations on where you can explore and shoot without the burden of that three-legged thing, and with the right technique, you can achieve the same results as if the image was shot using a tripod.

When you shoot handheld, you need to have a strong and sturdy stance, reducing camera shake to enable you to capture sharp images. This means having a low centre of gravity and standing with your legs shoulder width apart with one foot in front of the other or brace yourself against an object such as a rock or tree.

Lake Bonney, Barmera, South Australia. Sony A7R Mark II, 16-35mm f/4 lens @ 16mm. 1/4s @ f8, ISO 640.

The position I have found gives the best possible results, is to keep your arms and elbows tucked tightly into your body for maximum stability while holding your lens from beneath.

An issue with shooting handheld is that it increases the risk of introducing movement and camera shake, which can result in blurry images. The best option is to be mindful of your breathing by taking a deep breath in, pausing for a second or two and firing the shutter as you breathe out. With most stabilised sensors, you can pull off a handheld image as slow as 1/4 of a second at 16mm and still be completely tack sharp.

Finally to ensure a sharp shot, don’t be afraid to pump up your ISO. I don’t usually go above ISO 1000, but modern cameras are excellent at managing digital noise, and you may be surprised how good higher ISO images can be depending on the subject – a sharp shot is always better than a blurry one!

Lake Tabourie, NSW. Canon 5D Mark IV, EF16-35mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 16mm. 30s @ f10, ISO 640.

The wrap up

Landscape photography has taught and helped me through a lot of different things over the years. I owe it a lot; I wouldn’t be the person I am today without it. I hope you are able to put some of these techniques into practice. Always remember photography should be a fun and enjoyable experience. It’s time to get out there and start pursuing the unforeseen. ❂

About the author: Samuel Markham is a self-taught landscape and wilderness photographer based on the South Coast of New South Wales. See more at samuelmarkham.photography.