Veteran photographer Tim Wheeler works on water frequently,
and on a recent sailing trip he used some basic, but effective techniques to
help enthusiasts improve their images.
Photographing images on the water can be really tricky, but
there are a few useful techniques which will reward you with better pictures,
and they’re not hard to use.
I was recently the on-board photographer for a Mariner
Boating yacht cruise along the Turkish coast, sailing with a group of enthusiasts
who wanted to improve their photos.
It became obvious that many of them weren’t using a fast
enough shutter speed to make sure their action images were sharp (around 1/250s
is a good starting point, though faster speeds will also work well). However,
there were other techniques I was able to impart to help them improve.
01 USING TRAVEL ZOOMS
So-called ‘travel zoom’ lenses have their role on the water.
When conditions are variable (and on yachts they vary constantly), zooms offer
lots of flexibility to shoot a range of subjects, from close-up crew members in
cockpits, to boats on a distant shoreline. I recommend an 18-200mm zoom as a
good starting point, though the variable maximum apertures on ‘consumer’ level
lenses can be an issue which will affect your image quality. At the telephoto
end of the range you can choose a distant subject (or sometimes even not so
distant!) and crop in tight. At the 18mm focal length you can include both
close-up subject matter, as well as subjects which hold your interest further
back through the scene, filling the frame, giving the image context, and adding
an interesting perspective.
02 INCREASE ISOs
Another useful adjustment you can make to assist in
increasing your shutter speed is to increase your ISO setting. While the lowest
ISO rating will offer the best image quality (and least amount of ‘noise’ - or
coloured specks - in your picture), by increasing your ISO you can increase
your shutter speed (and your ability to freeze action) without altering your
aperture setting. Increasing your ISO rating works well when conditions get
gloomy, or it’s early or late in the day and the light is low. Noise can cause
graininess at 800 or 1600 ISO, but with modern cameras it’s usually minimal,
and this adjustment can help you freeze action at very fast shutter speeds (like
1/2000s to 1/4000s).
03 VIBRATION REDUCTION
Many modern cameras and lenses have a Vibration Reduction or
Image Stabiliser function (usually a button) which involves complicated
mechanisms built into either the lens or the camera body, and which effectively
allows you to use a slower shutter speed and still make a sharp image. Take
advantage of these settings when you’re using a long telephoto setting. It can
be hard enough to keep a lens steady on a boat moving about on waves!
04 THINK SLOW
Don’t get locked into fast shutter speeds, though. As well
as using suitable shutter speeds to make sure your action shot of a yacht or
boat sailing is sharp, think about the opposite option – very slow shutter
speeds. This is a little more creative, but it allows you to explore subtle
tones and emotive effects. Around 1/15s is quite slow for marine subjects,
especially waves or moving boats, and the subsequent blurring you achieve might
make quite a creative effect. If you try this in bright (midday) conditions
you’ll end up with an over-exposed shot, so you may have to fit filters to keep
your exposure well balanced. Slow shutter speeds are easier when the light is
low.
05 ADD A POLARISER
When you’re afloat, add ‘sunglasses’ to your camera by
fitting a polarising filter. Whilst they reduce the amount of light reaching
your sensor, the camera will adjust for this. Polarisers are designed to kill
any stray glare, and thus they increase the intensity of blues and greens in
your scene. Marine images often have a lot of both colours. Polarisers make
whites (seen in clouds, hulls, and sails) really jump. But watch out for
variations in tone when you’re using a polariser on a very wide-angle lens
setting. You’ll find that the intensity of blue skies may vary across your
composition. A polariser has a maximum effect at right angles to the angle of
the sun.
06 KEEP THE HORIZON STRAIGHT!
Finally, aim to keep your horizon line straight – it’s
harder than it looks when you’re on a boat! Horizontal horizons generally look
better (unless they’re quite deliberately slanted), so use your camera’s
viewfinder grid or an indicator line to keep the horizon level. Many modern
cameras don’t have 100 percent viewfinders, and it’s surprisingly tricky to
keep the horizon line parallel to the frame. This takes lots of practice, but
it’s worthwhile.
I’ll be putting these ideas (and others) into practice once
again on Mariner Boating’s next Sail Croatia Photo Tour in August this year.
See: www.marinerboating.com/tour/sail-croatia-photo-tour-2013 
A travel zoom lens offers great flexibility on a sailing photo tour. Photo by Tim Wheeler.
Crop tight, filling the frame. Nikon D800, 24-70mm f2.8 lens at 24mm, f11
@ 1/1000s, ISO 400.Adjustments in Lightroom. Photo by Tim Wheeler. 
A polarizing filter kills glare and reflections. Nikon D800, 24-70mm f2.8
lens at 70mm, f9 @ 1/2500s, ISO 800. Adjustments in Lightroom. Photo by Tim Wheeler. 
Low light shots show great atmospherics. But think about increasing your camera's ISO rating. Photo by Tim Wheeler.