Image Doctor: Dark Daisy
Photographer: Jane Wilkinson
Camera Type: Canon EOS 600D
Lens: EFS 18-55mm
Shutter Speed: 1/125
Adjustments: None. I don't have Picassa or Photoshop
Photographer's Comments: I went down to the Hunter Valley Gardens and took some photos of the flowers. It was early in the morning so there were lots of shade and dew drops still on the flowers. I got home and realised I had the quality settings at 4.5 megapixel. Disapointed that I won't be able to print the photo any larger than a 6x4".
Image doctor's advice
One thing that is worth remembering in photography is that at the end of the day, it is all about personal expression and there is no right or wrong. Personal expression is just that… it is personal and so what works for you might not work for another person because they are not you. Simple, eh!
Anyway, with that fact in mind there are probably going to be people out there thinking that this is a really underexposed photograph! Then there will be people who, like myself, will look upon this as an image from the “Dark Blue” period in your photographic career.
Personally, there are two things I would do to this image to get people thinking.
The first is to lighten the detail in the middle of this photograph. In the example below I selected the centre of the flower using the elliptical marquee tool in Photoshop and then went to Adjustments > Shadow/Highlights and moved the Shadow slider to about 35% to brighten just the centre of the flower. To add some interest to the image I then used the same circular selection to adjust the Hue of the image (Adjustments > Hue / Saturation)… I shifted it by 180 degrees to convert the blue centre into a dark yellow centre.
And the second thing that I changed… I made it
vertical… it looks stronger now.
One last thing. You mentioned that you had the camera in a low-res setting when you made this photo. Given the chance, if you are making photos for the art of photography you should always be working in full-resolution RAW mode. At least then you will have significantly more control over the image then you will get from a JPEG. The only thing is, if you start working in RAW at some stage you will need to get some image management software, such as Adobe Lightroom or Apple Aperture. You will get there though... I think your images deserve it.
Image Doctor's edited version